I started writing this post at the beginning of my move from London to Singapore, almost a month ago now. I am already back in Singapore, but the rest of my stash (and stuff) are in transit for another two months or so.
Packing knitting for a trip takes me much much more time than packing my clothes.
How on earth am I supposed to predict what I will feel like knitting days or even weeks from now? I know what I SHOULD be working on, of course, but I've tended to find that bringing projects I'm not excited about tends to lead to an absence of knitting.
This post is about packing for general travel (up to 3 weeks), but I will write a bit more about my experiences packing for extended travel next week.
#1 Variety, Variety, Variety
I like to pack at least 3 kinds of projects, which usually means at least one lace shawl and at least one garment, since that's pretty much all I knit. If I knitted socks, I'd definitely have one of those too.
#2 Think About Your Environment
I was moving straight into an empty apartment, with the intent to buy lights and furniture as needed, so I didn't worry too much about that this time. But normally, when I travel, I make sure not to pack items that require good light to work on.
So pass on the cobweb yarns and bring on the fingering and up yarns. Stay away from dark colors that are difficult to see.
#3 Bring a Needle set!
Sometimes you cast something on, and you realise your gauge is off. It's just easier to travel with the whole set.
#4 Bring Some Yarn!
Just in case you feel like casting on something new, you should bring something new. In #1, I said I usually pack 3 kinds of projects, and usually the third is something new. :)
#5 Buy Some Yarn!
We all deserve souvenir yarn!
Thursday 14 December 2017
Monday 20 November 2017
May Made: Apex Cardigan II
This is my first lever knitting project, but I will talk about the lever knitting aspects separately.
The Making
The beginnings of my second Apex.
I must be crazy, but this is the second Apex Cardigan I have made this year. I learnt quite a lot from the first one I made.
I exaggerated all the things I loved about the first one.
I made it wider. This emphasized the drop shoulder aspect, and will also allow me to use a shawl pin to hold the fronts closed if it gets particularly cold.
I also chose to knit it as long as I could given the amount of yarn I had, after seeing Ririko's version. It definitely reduces that weird bump I had on the back too.
But I think the best thing I did for my second version is to use a much drapier yarn and fabric. I think it looks more elegant and feminine this way.
I actually did knit the pockets, but the yarn I'm using is somewhat puffy, and it looked oddly bumpy at the hips, so I took them out.
The Materials
I used Illimani Amelie, which the proprietor of Illimani, Alvaro, kindly agreed to sell directly to me, even though he normally only does wholesale.
Amelie is a blown yarn. They make it by knitting a silk tube, and blowing it full of lovely alpaca fiber. You get 150m per 50g and it still knits up at a true worsted-aran gauge. This makes it extraordinarily light compared to most aran yarns.
And it feels absolutely glorious. This yarn deserves to be a next-to-skin garment. I very much would love to keep this cardigan as a house coat, and if I did that, I would only wear shorts and spaghetti strap tops at home to keep as much of the cardigan next to my skin as possible. I am currently working on a cashmere-silk shawl, and I firmly believe that Amelie feels much nicer.
The Wearing
I have to admit, there is not anything new here. I made it long enough to be a proper Swoat, unlike my first one, and that's about it.
But here are some photos of me posing with it after I did the Three Needle Bind-off for the body, but without side seams or sleeves.
I put the cardigan back in front, and tied the cardigan fronts to wear this as an apron. I'm just going to pretend that Olga found this funny. :D
I briefly, but seriously, considered keeping it as a cape.
If I hadn't already finished the sleeves, I might actually have left it like this. Linda Marveng's Wa has a similar sort of shape. If you would like to use the Apex pattern to make something like the Wa, I would recommend using the largest size chart, because it is not wide enough to even cover my upper arms like this.
View from the back.
With the matching scarf I made to keep my front warm.
The Notes
I am of the opinion that this design looks better oversized and long, maybe more so than in the modeled pictures. Despite using a bigger gauge this time, I actually still went up a size in width (from 40 to 42). The main thing is, you probably want to make sure that the drop shoulder ends before your elbows begin. It will be less in your way.
If you should attempt to try it on after joining the fronts and back and blocking, it should be longer than you need it to be. The seams will 'pull up' the hem.
Choose your yarn, gauge and fabric wisely. This is a great project for choosing your own gauge, so rely on your preferences rather than worrying about getting gauge. The only thing I dislike about my drapier gauge is that the cables are not popping as much.
The Making
The beginnings of my second Apex.
I must be crazy, but this is the second Apex Cardigan I have made this year. I learnt quite a lot from the first one I made.
I exaggerated all the things I loved about the first one.
I made it wider. This emphasized the drop shoulder aspect, and will also allow me to use a shawl pin to hold the fronts closed if it gets particularly cold.
I also chose to knit it as long as I could given the amount of yarn I had, after seeing Ririko's version. It definitely reduces that weird bump I had on the back too.
But I think the best thing I did for my second version is to use a much drapier yarn and fabric. I think it looks more elegant and feminine this way.
I actually did knit the pockets, but the yarn I'm using is somewhat puffy, and it looked oddly bumpy at the hips, so I took them out.
The Materials
I used Illimani Amelie, which the proprietor of Illimani, Alvaro, kindly agreed to sell directly to me, even though he normally only does wholesale.
Amelie is a blown yarn. They make it by knitting a silk tube, and blowing it full of lovely alpaca fiber. You get 150m per 50g and it still knits up at a true worsted-aran gauge. This makes it extraordinarily light compared to most aran yarns.
And it feels absolutely glorious. This yarn deserves to be a next-to-skin garment. I very much would love to keep this cardigan as a house coat, and if I did that, I would only wear shorts and spaghetti strap tops at home to keep as much of the cardigan next to my skin as possible. I am currently working on a cashmere-silk shawl, and I firmly believe that Amelie feels much nicer.
The Wearing
I have to admit, there is not anything new here. I made it long enough to be a proper Swoat, unlike my first one, and that's about it.
But here are some photos of me posing with it after I did the Three Needle Bind-off for the body, but without side seams or sleeves.
I put the cardigan back in front, and tied the cardigan fronts to wear this as an apron. I'm just going to pretend that Olga found this funny. :D
I briefly, but seriously, considered keeping it as a cape.
If I hadn't already finished the sleeves, I might actually have left it like this. Linda Marveng's Wa has a similar sort of shape. If you would like to use the Apex pattern to make something like the Wa, I would recommend using the largest size chart, because it is not wide enough to even cover my upper arms like this.
The Notes
I am of the opinion that this design looks better oversized and long, maybe more so than in the modeled pictures. Despite using a bigger gauge this time, I actually still went up a size in width (from 40 to 42). The main thing is, you probably want to make sure that the drop shoulder ends before your elbows begin. It will be less in your way.
If you should attempt to try it on after joining the fronts and back and blocking, it should be longer than you need it to be. The seams will 'pull up' the hem.
Choose your yarn, gauge and fabric wisely. This is a great project for choosing your own gauge, so rely on your preferences rather than worrying about getting gauge. The only thing I dislike about my drapier gauge is that the cables are not popping as much.
Thursday 2 November 2017
Lever Knitting: A Series
While I have been away from the blog recently, my big project has been learning how to lever knit.
I am almost done with my first lever knitting project, so I think it's a good time to start writing about it. I hope that the husbear will also be able to take some video of me lever knitting.
I'll be touching on the following topics, and I'll cheerfully answer any additions to the list that you might like to see:
I am almost done with my first lever knitting project, so I think it's a good time to start writing about it. I hope that the husbear will also be able to take some video of me lever knitting.
I'll be touching on the following topics, and I'll cheerfully answer any additions to the list that you might like to see:
- Speed
- Ergonomics
- Convenience
- Quality of fabric
- Pros and cons vs other styles of knitting
- Choice of needles
Wednesday 25 October 2017
I am Mathemaknitter
I have changed the blog title and URL to better reflect what I really like talking about.
Which is math and knitting. And there will be bits of programming thrown in, now that I've sorted out some technical issues.
The thing is, I just have so much more to say about math and fit and knitting than picking out the perfect capsule wardrobe.
I have also changed my username on instagram and Ravelry to mathemaknitter.
I have to say, I'm surprised that nobody has thought of this username before.
In any case, I hope to be back in a few days with something more substantial. I did finish a shawl, two cardigans, the body of a shrug and a Modified Shawl Thing since I last wrote anything substantial.
Which is math and knitting. And there will be bits of programming thrown in, now that I've sorted out some technical issues.
The thing is, I just have so much more to say about math and fit and knitting than picking out the perfect capsule wardrobe.
I have also changed my username on instagram and Ravelry to mathemaknitter.
I have to say, I'm surprised that nobody has thought of this username before.
In any case, I hope to be back in a few days with something more substantial. I did finish a shawl, two cardigans, the body of a shrug and a Modified Shawl Thing since I last wrote anything substantial.
Monday 2 October 2017
Speedy Lace Knitting
(I'm writing this brief post for /u/FelidarSovereign.)
In this post, segments and repeats are different things.
Square shawls knitted in the round usually have 4 segments, but often have repeats of any number of stitches within each segment.
1. Knit in the round
Most people knit faster than they purl, particularly if they knit continental.
I find that garter lace is harder to fix, despite having been playing around with it for awhile. Many traditional garter lace patterns also have wrong-side patterning, which is troublesome for lifelines if you need them.
Knitting in the round also has the advantage that as your rows grow larger, you will not have to turn your work.
2. Minimise beading
Beading is pretty slow, unless you pre-string, but I have not worked with pre-strung before as I knit with very fine yarn, and I worry about the wear and tear on the yarn.
3. Choose your Left Leaning Decrease wisely
I use the SSK variation that Brooklyn Tweed recommends in their patterns, because it is very fast. I believe I first came across this in Permafrost by Jared Flood. Slip the first stitch as if to knit, then knit it and the next stitch together through the back loop. Naturally, if you need a 2-stitch left leaning decrease, you slip the first stitch, then knit it and the next 2 stitches together through the back loop and so forth.
If you're using yarn that is at least 1300m per 100g, I advocate just knitting or purling the stitches together through the back loop. You will not be able to tell the difference anyway.
4. Decrease in one movement
When you k2tog/k3tog/kxtog, it's about as fast as any other knit stitch.
One of the reasons why I like BT's SSK variation (see point 3 above) is that it is very easy to knit it in one movement, none of this passing stitches back and forth nonsense.
You can also do a CDD and other multi-stitch decreases in this manner. I actually find this to be easier to achieve with finer yarns.
This is important to speed because lace patterning is the result of planned decreasing and increasing, and the more intricate the lace, the more decreasing there will be.
5. Short repeats
Short repeats are faster to memorise, and require less checking back and forth with the chart/instructions.
You will likely also find that you will be much faster at finding mistakes when you need to.
6. Use fewer stitch markers
I am not advocating skipping them altogether, but for a shawl knitted in the round, I will typically only use stitch markers for every segment. For instance, a square knitted in the round usually has 4 segments, so I will have 4 stitch markers.
I am currently binding off a circular shawl that has 210 patterned rows, and is 8 segments in the round. I slipped markers 1680 times, but if I had a stitch marker every 20 stitches, plus for one to mark each segment, I would be slipping markers over 6000 times.
7. Provisional cast on for Very Fine Yarns
I recommend that if you are knitting flat with very fine yarn that you consider doing a COWYAK.
One of the problems with very fine yarn is that at the beginning, it is difficult to read your knitting because there is not enough weight to stretch out the yarn a little. This means you will use your fingers to do it, which is an additional strain and will slow you down.
Using a COWYAK with a slightly heavier yarn will give you that weight at the beginning. I recommend doing at least 5 or 6 rows, maybe more, because if you do need to stretch out your knitting to read it, it will also give you a 'handle' to use.
It will not be too heavy to stress the yarn, as once it is long enough, the COWYAK will just rest on your lap.
Additionally, you will be able to bind off both sides the same way, which will look nicer.
8. Wool and Animal Fibres are Queen
Elastic fibres make it easier for decreasing. This is really important because there is so much decreasing in lace.
It is also crucial to point 4 above. Decreasing in one movement with linen or cotton is more difficult than with wool or alpaca.
9. Skip the Knitted-on Border
I know they are traditional and pretty, but they are also slow and tedious and it is like sleeve island: it happens after the rest of it is done.
10. Knit Every Day
If you work on it every day, it will be easier for you each time you pick up the project again, especially if the pattern is repeating a lot.
In this post, segments and repeats are different things.
Square shawls knitted in the round usually have 4 segments, but often have repeats of any number of stitches within each segment.
1. Knit in the round
Most people knit faster than they purl, particularly if they knit continental.
I find that garter lace is harder to fix, despite having been playing around with it for awhile. Many traditional garter lace patterns also have wrong-side patterning, which is troublesome for lifelines if you need them.
Knitting in the round also has the advantage that as your rows grow larger, you will not have to turn your work.
2. Minimise beading
Beading is pretty slow, unless you pre-string, but I have not worked with pre-strung before as I knit with very fine yarn, and I worry about the wear and tear on the yarn.
3. Choose your Left Leaning Decrease wisely
I use the SSK variation that Brooklyn Tweed recommends in their patterns, because it is very fast. I believe I first came across this in Permafrost by Jared Flood. Slip the first stitch as if to knit, then knit it and the next stitch together through the back loop. Naturally, if you need a 2-stitch left leaning decrease, you slip the first stitch, then knit it and the next 2 stitches together through the back loop and so forth.
If you're using yarn that is at least 1300m per 100g, I advocate just knitting or purling the stitches together through the back loop. You will not be able to tell the difference anyway.
4. Decrease in one movement
When you k2tog/k3tog/kxtog, it's about as fast as any other knit stitch.
One of the reasons why I like BT's SSK variation (see point 3 above) is that it is very easy to knit it in one movement, none of this passing stitches back and forth nonsense.
You can also do a CDD and other multi-stitch decreases in this manner. I actually find this to be easier to achieve with finer yarns.
This is important to speed because lace patterning is the result of planned decreasing and increasing, and the more intricate the lace, the more decreasing there will be.
5. Short repeats
Short repeats are faster to memorise, and require less checking back and forth with the chart/instructions.
You will likely also find that you will be much faster at finding mistakes when you need to.
6. Use fewer stitch markers
I am not advocating skipping them altogether, but for a shawl knitted in the round, I will typically only use stitch markers for every segment. For instance, a square knitted in the round usually has 4 segments, so I will have 4 stitch markers.
I am currently binding off a circular shawl that has 210 patterned rows, and is 8 segments in the round. I slipped markers 1680 times, but if I had a stitch marker every 20 stitches, plus for one to mark each segment, I would be slipping markers over 6000 times.
7. Provisional cast on for Very Fine Yarns
I recommend that if you are knitting flat with very fine yarn that you consider doing a COWYAK.
One of the problems with very fine yarn is that at the beginning, it is difficult to read your knitting because there is not enough weight to stretch out the yarn a little. This means you will use your fingers to do it, which is an additional strain and will slow you down.
Using a COWYAK with a slightly heavier yarn will give you that weight at the beginning. I recommend doing at least 5 or 6 rows, maybe more, because if you do need to stretch out your knitting to read it, it will also give you a 'handle' to use.
It will not be too heavy to stress the yarn, as once it is long enough, the COWYAK will just rest on your lap.
Additionally, you will be able to bind off both sides the same way, which will look nicer.
8. Wool and Animal Fibres are Queen
Elastic fibres make it easier for decreasing. This is really important because there is so much decreasing in lace.
It is also crucial to point 4 above. Decreasing in one movement with linen or cotton is more difficult than with wool or alpaca.
9. Skip the Knitted-on Border
I know they are traditional and pretty, but they are also slow and tedious and it is like sleeve island: it happens after the rest of it is done.
10. Knit Every Day
If you work on it every day, it will be easier for you each time you pick up the project again, especially if the pattern is repeating a lot.
Thursday 8 June 2017
Summer of Basics
Basics are what I'm missing from my wardrobe, especially good quality ones.
So Fringe Association's Summer of Basics is right up my alley. The goal is to make 3 items over 3 months that will be wardrobe essentials for you.
I'm aiming to make 1 set each of sewn and machine-knitted garments.
I have 3 dress patterns, so the sewn things are taken care off. I might shorten them a little to make tops or tunics, but that's about it.
It's the machine knitted garments that are maybe more interesting.
#1: Palmer by Michele Wang.
Photo copyright Brooklyn Tweed.
I've made significant progress on swatching and doing math to make this on the machine, because I'm clearly not knitting this much stockinette ever.
I am, however, undecided on whether to rib the hem, cuffs and so forth. It'll be a loooooooong project in single stranded in 2/14nm yarn. I'll most likely swatch with garter knitted sideways, and then ribbing both single and double stranded.
I do have some time to decide though. I plan to do all the ribbing for the fronts and hem at the same time, in one go, so I can mitre the corners of the bottom fronts.
#2: Sweater Blank by Renee Callahan
Photo copyright Craftsy.
I want one of these with loads of positive ease, kind of like a Boxy. I have swatched already too.
#3: Custom Fit?
I don't know which pattern, but I have been thinking that this might be a good time to try Custom Fit out. Possibly with a tuck stitch pattern. My back up plan is to make an Infinite Loop, since I already have a plan for it.
So Fringe Association's Summer of Basics is right up my alley. The goal is to make 3 items over 3 months that will be wardrobe essentials for you.
I'm aiming to make 1 set each of sewn and machine-knitted garments.
I have 3 dress patterns, so the sewn things are taken care off. I might shorten them a little to make tops or tunics, but that's about it.
It's the machine knitted garments that are maybe more interesting.
#1: Palmer by Michele Wang.
Photo copyright Brooklyn Tweed.
I've made significant progress on swatching and doing math to make this on the machine, because I'm clearly not knitting this much stockinette ever.
I am, however, undecided on whether to rib the hem, cuffs and so forth. It'll be a loooooooong project in single stranded in 2/14nm yarn. I'll most likely swatch with garter knitted sideways, and then ribbing both single and double stranded.
I do have some time to decide though. I plan to do all the ribbing for the fronts and hem at the same time, in one go, so I can mitre the corners of the bottom fronts.
#2: Sweater Blank by Renee Callahan
I want one of these with loads of positive ease, kind of like a Boxy. I have swatched already too.
#3: Custom Fit?
I don't know which pattern, but I have been thinking that this might be a good time to try Custom Fit out. Possibly with a tuck stitch pattern. My back up plan is to make an Infinite Loop, since I already have a plan for it.
Wednesday 7 June 2017
A Standard Swatch
One of the best things about machine knitting is the ease of swatching.
Some labeled swatches. 2 of them are hand-knitted.
It's allowed me to experiment more with my yarns, and the fabric that I can create.
I've been doing a lot of swatching as a result. In fact, whenever I get a new yarn that I want to test on the machine, I make a standard swatch.
I cast on 40 stitches with e-wrap, knit 40 rows as a specific tension, and then cast off. I tag my swatches, measure the gauge, weight and size.
4-ply Acrylic.I expect to use this yarn for experiments with texture and cables.
2/14nm 70/30 yak hair/wool. Scrumptiously soft. I will be writing more about using this to make a light cardigan, I hope.
Some labeled swatches. 2 of them are hand-knitted.
I will be reporting on my experiments with tension in a few days, I hope.
Wednesday 31 May 2017
Me Made May 2017
I hilariously wrote the entire post calling it May Made May before I realised that was actually Me Made.
I started out Me Made May 2017 with 2 cardigans, 1 scarf, and 1 shawl.
I added 4 dresses to the pile by the end of it.
This was the best picture I could take that included all 4 of them. I will hopefully write more in the coming weeks.
I made the dresses in the picture with the guidance of Jenny Schwarz (@schwarzmenswear or JennySchwarz.com), who also drafted the patterns for me.
I started out Me Made May 2017 with 2 cardigans, 1 scarf, and 1 shawl.
I added 4 dresses to the pile by the end of it.
This was the best picture I could take that included all 4 of them. I will hopefully write more in the coming weeks.
I made the dresses in the picture with the guidance of Jenny Schwarz (@schwarzmenswear or JennySchwarz.com), who also drafted the patterns for me.
Friday 26 May 2017
A Shortcut to the Perfect Dress
I have had a lot of trouble finding patterns for dresses that felt like me, and the ones I did like were often made out of fabrics I didn't want to care for.
(Ironing. I don't do it. I only purchased my first ever iron after deciding that I would take up sewing.)
A lot of popular sewing designs that are simple to make are also loose around the waist, which is a style I particularly dislike to wear. I feel big and heavy in them no matter what, and I generally prefer my clothes to be cut close to my body.
Most of the things I did like were impractical for me to make and imperfect for my wardrobe.
The perfect dress would allow me to ride my bike, be a simple backdrop to my hand knits, and have a fairly fitted silhouette.
I just felt stuck. I hated the thought that the first few things weren't going to be things I LOVED.
I didn't expect them to be perfect, but I did expect them to be better than stuff I bought.
I looked up a bunch of sewing classes, and wrote some emails to a couple of places, asking if they would be willing to help.
But it was actually when my beautiful coat's lining was torn that I found the perfect person.
We talked, and she drew up some sketches and made some toiles. She did all the drafting, and she's now coaching me through making the first pieces.
I'll write more about my perfect dresses soon. I'm finding that I'm actually struggling to write as much as I thought I would when I purchased the domain name.
(Ironing. I don't do it. I only purchased my first ever iron after deciding that I would take up sewing.)
A lot of popular sewing designs that are simple to make are also loose around the waist, which is a style I particularly dislike to wear. I feel big and heavy in them no matter what, and I generally prefer my clothes to be cut close to my body.
Most of the things I did like were impractical for me to make and imperfect for my wardrobe.
The perfect dress would allow me to ride my bike, be a simple backdrop to my hand knits, and have a fairly fitted silhouette.
I just felt stuck. I hated the thought that the first few things weren't going to be things I LOVED.
I didn't expect them to be perfect, but I did expect them to be better than stuff I bought.
I looked up a bunch of sewing classes, and wrote some emails to a couple of places, asking if they would be willing to help.
But it was actually when my beautiful coat's lining was torn that I found the perfect person.
We talked, and she drew up some sketches and made some toiles. She did all the drafting, and she's now coaching me through making the first pieces.
I'll write more about my perfect dresses soon. I'm finding that I'm actually struggling to write as much as I thought I would when I purchased the domain name.
Monday 15 May 2017
May Made: Apex
The Making
Olga Buraya-Kefelian's Apex in Zealana Artisan Heron.
Another sweater by Olga Buraya-Kefelian!
This gorgeous oversized sweater coat was originally designed to be longer, but I'm pretty short and I wanted something I could safely cycle in without snags, so I made it shorter.
I, uh, did not swatch, but just cast on the smallest size. For the body, the only modification I made was to knit fewer rows in the cabled/lace pattern because it would have been too long to cycle in otherwise.
I added a row of plain knitting to the shoulders (both front and back) before doing the three-needle bind off for a little added structure. It actually also looks much nicer this way. I do plan to reinforce the shoulder and bought some cotton webbing for it.
I also knit the sleeves in the round, and I made them quite a bit smaller because I have skinny arms.
Instead of a crochet cast on, I used a tubular cast on for the ribbing. I also used Tech Knitter's trick to make the transition of ribbing to stockinette look nicer, and I'd definitely recommend doing that. Very little extra work for quite a bit of pay off.
This is a garment that needs seams, and the bigger and longer you make it, the more it'll need them. I wouldn't recommend changing it to be worked in the round.
Closeup of the right side. I did this one second, so it looks nicer than the other side.
I spent an entire day seaming this, to make sure the sleeves set right and the pattern was aligned. Totally worth it!
The Materials
Leftover Zealana Artisan Heron in colour Red Chilli. I originally bought 16 balls because I was afraid I would run out.
The yarn is Zealana Artisan Heron, which is a 80/20 merino possum blend.
I really love the resulting garment, but I did not enjoy knitting this yarn. It's very stiff, and it made it impossible for me to do the cables without a cable needle. It's also worsted, which I don't typically like knitting anyway.
The stitch definition is very nice, and it spit splices like a dream. It feels very sturdy, and only broke once during seaming despite the number of times I ripped them out and reused the yarn.
This yarn gets softer with wear. I was kind of disappointed when I first put it on because it wasn't as soft as I had hoped. But I've been wearing it for a few days now, and it's much much nicer than right after I seamed it. So don't despair!
The Wearing
Apex over black top and bespoke wool trousers.
Apex with knee-high boots! This is a really great combo.
This is a beautiful garment that is comfortable to wear. It works from house coat to nice cardigan over tailored clothes for work, and everything in between. Definitely be a great travel piece too.
I would recommend picking a yarn that would be comfortable at a variety of indoor temperatures. I'm a little concerned that mine will be too warm indoors, but the generous open front and reverse v-neck makes it a bit impractical outdoors.
I really love this garment. I am seriously considering making another one already, and to be honest, the more I wear it, the more I want another one. :)
Olga Buraya-Kefelian's Apex in Zealana Artisan Heron.
Another sweater by Olga Buraya-Kefelian!
This gorgeous oversized sweater coat was originally designed to be longer, but I'm pretty short and I wanted something I could safely cycle in without snags, so I made it shorter.
I, uh, did not swatch, but just cast on the smallest size. For the body, the only modification I made was to knit fewer rows in the cabled/lace pattern because it would have been too long to cycle in otherwise.
I added a row of plain knitting to the shoulders (both front and back) before doing the three-needle bind off for a little added structure. It actually also looks much nicer this way. I do plan to reinforce the shoulder and bought some cotton webbing for it.
I also knit the sleeves in the round, and I made them quite a bit smaller because I have skinny arms.
Instead of a crochet cast on, I used a tubular cast on for the ribbing. I also used Tech Knitter's trick to make the transition of ribbing to stockinette look nicer, and I'd definitely recommend doing that. Very little extra work for quite a bit of pay off.
This is a garment that needs seams, and the bigger and longer you make it, the more it'll need them. I wouldn't recommend changing it to be worked in the round.
Closeup of the right side. I did this one second, so it looks nicer than the other side.
I spent an entire day seaming this, to make sure the sleeves set right and the pattern was aligned. Totally worth it!
The Materials
Leftover Zealana Artisan Heron in colour Red Chilli. I originally bought 16 balls because I was afraid I would run out.
The yarn is Zealana Artisan Heron, which is a 80/20 merino possum blend.
I really love the resulting garment, but I did not enjoy knitting this yarn. It's very stiff, and it made it impossible for me to do the cables without a cable needle. It's also worsted, which I don't typically like knitting anyway.
The stitch definition is very nice, and it spit splices like a dream. It feels very sturdy, and only broke once during seaming despite the number of times I ripped them out and reused the yarn.
This yarn gets softer with wear. I was kind of disappointed when I first put it on because it wasn't as soft as I had hoped. But I've been wearing it for a few days now, and it's much much nicer than right after I seamed it. So don't despair!
The Wearing
Apex over black top and bespoke wool trousers.
Apex with knee-high boots! This is a really great combo.
This is a beautiful garment that is comfortable to wear. It works from house coat to nice cardigan over tailored clothes for work, and everything in between. Definitely be a great travel piece too.
I would recommend picking a yarn that would be comfortable at a variety of indoor temperatures. I'm a little concerned that mine will be too warm indoors, but the generous open front and reverse v-neck makes it a bit impractical outdoors.
I really love this garment. I am seriously considering making another one already, and to be honest, the more I wear it, the more I want another one. :)
Monday 24 April 2017
Gear Talk: Knitting Needles
When it comes to interchangeable knitting needles, this is what I like:
I have used Addis, but I don't like the cable, and I find that fine yarns (which is almost exclusively what I work with) catch on the joins. That's annoying, and increases wear and tear on the yarn. I've never used the interchangeables, because they stop at 3.5mm and most of the needles I use are smaller than that. I actually have a whole bunch that I will be de-stashing soon.
- Very sharp tips
- Short tips
- Flexible cables
- Smooth joins
- Very small sizes
- Stainless steel
That combination means Chiaogoo to me, with Twist cables.
I have used Addis, but I don't like the cable, and I find that fine yarns (which is almost exclusively what I work with) catch on the joins. That's annoying, and increases wear and tear on the yarn. I've never used the interchangeables, because they stop at 3.5mm and most of the needles I use are smaller than that. I actually have a whole bunch that I will be de-stashing soon.
I just cannot get Hiya Hiya interchangeables to stay tight, so I'd never use them for lace, and that's pretty much everything I hand knit. I have 2 sizes and 2 cables, and rely on the husbear to tighten them up, but it's still not enough. I'm also not a fan of the swivel cable because I'm not sure what it's supposed to do for me. Once I finish my Apex cardigan, I'll be de-stashing these too.
I am of the opinion that Knit Picks has poor quality control and makes cheap, but not decent, products. I started with these, and returned so many cables because they were so badly finished, you could see 'spurs' of plastic on the cables. The joins are not very good either. I do understand that many people start with them because they're cheap, but I would recommend spending more if you can.
Pony and Aero are actually worse than Knit Picks. Since taking up knitting again as an adult, I am pretty sure that if those three were my only options for needles, I would have quit. Pony do actually make pretty decent tapestry needles though.
Tulip are marginally better than Pony or Aero, especially if you would like bamboo needles.
I'm going to briefly cover the things you want to think about when it comes to buying circular knitting needles. I haven't used straight needles as an adult, and don't intend to.
Material: Wood, Bamboo, Stainless Steel, Plastic, Carbon Fibre
Material determines the stiffness and tensile strength of the needles. Knitting needles are actually better with a bit of give to them, and shouldn't be too stiff. It also factors into how smooth they are.
Wood and bamboo are both light, and they warm up with use. But, they break easily. I broke at least 3 wooden needles before I switched. They are also more grippy, which is good if you're prone to dropping stitches or knit with slippery yarn. The Kinki Amibari bamboo are actually rather nice, just too grippy for me to knit with any speed.
My preference for stainless steel is because it's possible to achieve a very pointy end, be polished to be super smooth and not break easily, even if they're hollow.
I've never used carbon fibre, and think you should probably toss the plastic ones altogether.
Double Pointed Needles:
I use these for small circumference knitting in the round. I find that it's faster and less hassle than circulars, even though I'm perfectly comfortable in magic loop.
Circular Needles:
I primarily use circulars because I tend to knit very large pieces and also like to knit in the round. I find that circular allow you to rest the bulk of the weight of a piece on your lap, which strains my hands less.
Interchangeables vs Fixed:
I used to think I would need to do a lot of linelines, but the truth is I almost never do. So I'd suggest going for fixed needles instead because the joins are often smoother.
Cables
Generally speaking, you want a soft, flexible cable. Some of them have swivel joins, meaning that they rotate in the join, but I am not actually sure why that's any good.
Tuesday 18 April 2017
May Made: Helaine Cardigan
The Making
My finally finished photo, pre-blocking.
I made my first cardigan, and just in time for spring too!
It was a test knit from Laura Patterson, and as usual, you can find the pattern on Ravelry: Helaine.
The knitting itself was pretty straightforward, and suitable for an adventurous beginner. If you're a mad lace knitter like me, then this would be a nice break from more intricate lace.
One of my favorite design elements on this piece. The little ridges are formed by knitting a garter ridge at the point where you fold the hem over.
I have done folded hems on the knitting machine, but this is the first one I've done by hand. Next time, I might try sewing it shut rather than knitting it together.
The other modification I did was to use a three-needle bind-off across the shoulder seams. I don't mind seaming, but binding off and then seaming uses more yarn than a three-needle and I was afraid that I was running short on yarn.
Photo from Posh Dee who takes much much better photos than I do.
I used a merino-yak-silk DK from my much-loved Posh Yarn, called Be My Shelter From the Storm, and I used the best part of two skeins. It's one of those multi-colored greys that has bits of lilac and turquoise, and looks much nicer in person.
It is heavier and less drapey than the original called for yarn, which is pure tencel, but still next-to-skin worthy.
I'm thinking of making this again, but I might modify this pattern to be knit in the round and then steeked. Plus, I might use a different method to pick up stitches.
My Ravelry project for those who are so inclined.
The Wearing
Slightly awkward pose with bad hair. Just outside the Wellcome Collection, London. Photo by Husbear.
I'm wearing a black jersey tube dress underneath, but I think it would actually look better over a long-sleeved dress or top. I have not mastered the art of taking a selfie, or I would post a picture of that too.
Still outside the Wellcome Collection. This is probably my favorite shot of the ones we took. It was too cold to take very many of them.
I love how it looks from the back more, but I would blame that on the fact that my finishing skills are not up to par, and there's less of that from the back.
I actually forgot how much I like little cropped cardis. When you buy off the rack, and you're petite, cropped things become regular things. Another reason why I'm making more of my own clothes.
I already have another one on the list to be made: Andi Satterlund's Blaster, but if you have any other suggestions, please let me know! :)
Wednesday 12 April 2017
Blocking Mats #1
I knit a lot of lace, which means I also have to block a lot of lace.
I have a million pins and blocking wires, and half a dozen of these plastic mats.
If you are in London and would like them, you can totally have them if I have not yet disposed of them.
I thought about what I liked about those mats:
I have a million pins and blocking wires, and half a dozen of these plastic mats.
If you are in London and would like them, you can totally have them if I have not yet disposed of them.
I thought about what I liked about those mats:
- The holes allow for faster drying.
- As the holes form a grid, they help me align what I am blocking.
But what I did not like about them was:
- The holes get in the way of accurately blocking my large lace pieces.
- They cannot be rolled up and stored in a corner.
- I cannot steam or iron a piece after I pin it out.
I have seen quite a few how-tos to make your own blocking mats, but most of them have it backed by a piece of wood or foam board. That would prevent me from storing it easily, and I was concerned about the wood getting mouldy over time.
My inspiration actually comes from cloth diapers for babies. They need to be absorbent and prevent liquids from leaking through the material, just like for my blocking mats. They are also easy to clean, can be washed, bleached, whatever.
Materials List:
Bottom layer: PUL, just like for diapers. I was originally going to just buy whatever was cheapest, but I went with white in the end because they might be handy for taking pictures.
Middle layer: Microfleece. This is the absorbent layer. You can also use old towels, and probably even an old duvet. I have two colors only because I was buying remnants. Nobody will see them, and it is easy enough to piece them together.
Top layer: 1/4 inch checked cotton. The main thing is that it should have regular lines/squares, and be safe to iron. You might also consider getting fabric that is very contrasting with the colors you usually knit, as that would make it easier to see.
In addition to the list above, you will need basic sewing supplies like needles, thread, fabric pens or chalk, and a ruler. You can quite easily make this by hand, but having a sewing machine would be much much faster.
I'll be back later this week with my first prototype. I'm making one that will be just the right size for swatches.
I'll be back later this week with my first prototype. I'm making one that will be just the right size for swatches.
Friday 7 April 2017
I am MAD about Knitting Lace Shawls
Lace shawls were my gateway drug to knitting.
Izar was my first. I still have it, though I think about making it again in nicer, less pilly yarn quite often. The designer, Holly Chayes, is also one of the inspirations for this blog.
I have a few in progress at any one time. I've finished 2 in the past two weeks, and promptly started another 2.
I have made 4 for me so far. At least half my projects are lace shawls, for no reason other than I love knitting them. It is not as though I will wear all of them at the same time.
Oh, that's an idea! I shall take a picture of me wearing all of the ones I finished for me this year in December. I hope I remember! I have finished a red and a blurple already, and I have an orange, a turquoise and two green shawls to finish. Never mind all the ones I am certain I will start.
In the meantime, here's a teaser photo of my most recently started lace shawl:
I am knitting Manitoba in Quince and Co. Piper, colour Caracara. I bought in August last year at Loop and have been looking for just the right pattern ever since. If you would like to keep track of my project, my Ravelry project page is Paying the Piper.
Izar was my first. I still have it, though I think about making it again in nicer, less pilly yarn quite often. The designer, Holly Chayes, is also one of the inspirations for this blog.
I have a few in progress at any one time. I've finished 2 in the past two weeks, and promptly started another 2.
I have made 4 for me so far. At least half my projects are lace shawls, for no reason other than I love knitting them. It is not as though I will wear all of them at the same time.
Oh, that's an idea! I shall take a picture of me wearing all of the ones I finished for me this year in December. I hope I remember! I have finished a red and a blurple already, and I have an orange, a turquoise and two green shawls to finish. Never mind all the ones I am certain I will start.
In the meantime, here's a teaser photo of my most recently started lace shawl:
I am knitting Manitoba in Quince and Co. Piper, colour Caracara. I bought in August last year at Loop and have been looking for just the right pattern ever since. If you would like to keep track of my project, my Ravelry project page is Paying the Piper.
Wednesday 5 April 2017
A Bactus
A bactus is a traditional shape for Russian Orenburg shawls. It is basically a very shallow rectangle, with increases every 4th row rather than every 2nd.
I just finished this one last week.
This is the only WIP photo I have, mainly because I knitted it in 6 weeks.
Close up of the lace. I am aware that the variegation distorts and hides the lace somewhat, but I loved the look of the yarn in garter stitch so much that I decided to run with it anyway.
It's knitted in one of my favorite blends: alpaca silk cashmere. This particular one is a Miranda Lace from Posh Yarns. By my count, I knitted about 70 thousand stitches and just over 800m of yarn.
I have named the project Bactus #1 but I think Orenburg #1 would have been better. I am not a very big fan of this shape, as it would need to be incredibly long to become as deep as I like my shawls to be.
I have therefore mostly worn it as a scarf, wrapped many times around my neck.
I just finished this one last week.
This is the only WIP photo I have, mainly because I knitted it in 6 weeks.
As you can see, it is a very shallow triangle. At the deepest point, it is approximately half a meter wide, and from end to end, approximately 2.4m long.
Close up of the lace. I am aware that the variegation distorts and hides the lace somewhat, but I loved the look of the yarn in garter stitch so much that I decided to run with it anyway.
It's knitted in one of my favorite blends: alpaca silk cashmere. This particular one is a Miranda Lace from Posh Yarns. By my count, I knitted about 70 thousand stitches and just over 800m of yarn.
I have named the project Bactus #1 but I think Orenburg #1 would have been better. I am not a very big fan of this shape, as it would need to be incredibly long to become as deep as I like my shawls to be.
I have therefore mostly worn it as a scarf, wrapped many times around my neck.
Tuesday 28 March 2017
This is a Blog about Making Fewer Decisions on What to Wear
I hate getting up each morning and having to decide what to wear. And I hate going shopping for clothes made out of terrible materials even more.
I have tried pre-planning my wardrobe for the week, but I find that it makes me obsess over all sorts of pointless little details.
I have decided to short circuit all of that by making myself a uniform. Something that I can always wear, that I can dress up and down easily, is comfortable and feels like me.
I will be writing more on how I am making efforts to pare down and toss or donate items that I no longer wear, as well as the making of my uniform and accessories.
I have tried pre-planning my wardrobe for the week, but I find that it makes me obsess over all sorts of pointless little details.
I have decided to short circuit all of that by making myself a uniform. Something that I can always wear, that I can dress up and down easily, is comfortable and feels like me.
I will be writing more on how I am making efforts to pare down and toss or donate items that I no longer wear, as well as the making of my uniform and accessories.
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