A Tidy Stretchy Chain Bind-off, or Create More Loops!

This post started off as a comment to Kwerkii in a Ravelry group, but I decided that I would expand on it here. I would also like to thank Holly Chayes for sharing her favorite bind-off trick, because it was the inspiration for what I share here. 

When binding-off x stitches, you create (x-1) loops across the edge (because the first 2 stitches bound-off only create 1 loop). I propose that for a nice, stretchy bind-off, create more loops!

In this post, I will use the following abbreviations:

• YPCM: Yarn used per extra stitch bound off, in centimetres 
• YPS: Yarn used per extra stitch bound off, in terms of bound-off stitches 

YPCM is the length of yarn required to bind-off an extra stitch. 

YPS is different from the others, because it is a measurement that controls for gauge. 1 YPS basically means 1 wrap around a needle. If you knit a stitch, that is one 1 YPS, and the same if you purl.  

Therefore, the traditional Long-tail Bind-off has a YPS of 1, because to bind-off one more stitch, you knit the stitch, and then pass the previous one over. You only 'add yarn' once. 

To give you an idea what YPS looks like for other Bind-offs: 

• Long-tail bind-off: 1
• 3-stitch I-cord bind-off: 3 
• JSSBO: 2.5 (0.5 extra because of reverse and purl yarnovers eat a bit more yarn) 
• K2togtbl bind-off: 2 
• 1 by 1 tubular bind off with grafting: 4 

A sideways lace edging is super stretchy, but difficult to obtain a YPS measurement. It creates a longer outer edge than the inner edge that is being bound off, which gives the inner edge more room to grow. 

(These numbers are not calculated by measuring yarn used, but instead by counting the stitches made to bind off an extra stitch.) 

When you use a stretchy bind-off, you are using a technique that has a higher YPS, which consequently leads to a higher YPCM. 

When you increase the needle size, you increase the YPCM but not the YPS. It will usually be faster than switching to a stretchier bind-off, because you will not need to make more stitches.

Create More Loops! 

If you increase the number of loops in the bind-off edge to more than (x-1), you will increase the YPS and YPCM. 

With the K2togtbl bind-off, this can be done by knitting an extra loop (or stitch, depending on how you see it) into the stitch on the right needle at regular intervals. Theoretically, to achieve the same YPS as the JSSBO, you will create this extra stitch every second stitch you bind-off. 

I have actually never done that. I usually find that a loop increase of about 10-20%, or an extra 1-2 loops every 10 stitches, is sufficient -- this means a YPS of about 2.1-2.2. On my current mitten WIP, that seems to be enough so that I just slide my mittens on as opposed to feeling the tight edge as I tug it over the widest part of my hand.

Create More Smaller Loops for Cuffs! 

By choosing the correct needle size, you could have a Long-tail bind-off that has the same YPCM as a JSSBO. It does not mean that the former is equivalent to the latter, especially in terms of good finishing. How you add the extra yarn does matter, and in my opinion, that is why some people (myself included), have trouble getting JSSBO to look good. 

There are 2 kinds of stretchy edges that we commonly need in knitting. 

The first is what we need for blocking things like lace, where we want to open the edge up. We want to have the ability to stretch, open up, and stay that way. 

The second is what we need for things like cuffs and hems. We want it to have give, but to shrink back once we pull it over the right body part. 

For the latter, I like to suggest that you need a relatively high YPS while carefully managing the resulting YPCM so that you do not have a flaring edge. 

We can do that increasing the extra loops, to have a YPS of 2.3-2.4, and decreasing the needle size. 

Final Note: 

I will be back with photos at some point. I need to get a lightbox as I have trouble getting the close-up shots required. 

Blocking Mats #1

I knit a lot of lace, which means I also have to block a lot of lace.

I have a million pins and blocking wires, and half a dozen of these plastic mats.

If you are in London and would like them, you can totally have them if I have not yet disposed of them. 

I thought about what I liked about those mats:

• The holes allow for faster drying. 
• As the holes form a grid, they help me align what I am blocking. 

But what I did not like about them was: 

• The holes get in the way of accurately blocking my large lace pieces. 
• They cannot be rolled up and stored in a corner. 
• I cannot steam or iron a piece after I pin it out. 

I have seen quite a few how-tos to make your own blocking mats, but most of them have it backed by a piece of wood or foam board. That would prevent me from storing it easily, and I was concerned about the wood getting mouldy over time. 

My inspiration actually comes from cloth diapers for babies. They need to be absorbent and prevent liquids from leaking through the material, just like for my blocking mats. They are also easy to clean, can be washed, bleached, whatever. 

Materials List: 

Bottom layer: PUL, just like for diapers. I was originally going to just buy whatever was cheapest, but I went with white in the end because they might be handy for taking pictures. 

Middle layer: Microfleece. This is the absorbent layer. You can also use old towels, and probably even an old duvet. I have two colors only because I was buying remnants. Nobody will see them, and it is easy enough to piece them together. 

Top layer: 1/4 inch checked cotton. The main thing is that it should have regular lines/squares, and be safe to iron. You might also consider getting fabric that is very contrasting with the colors you usually knit, as that would make it easier to see. 

In addition to the list above, you will need basic sewing supplies like needles, thread, fabric pens or chalk, and a ruler. You can quite easily make this by hand, but having a sewing machine would be much much faster.

I'll be back later this week with my first prototype. I'm making one that will be just the right size for swatches.