I have changed the blog title and URL to better reflect what I really like talking about.
Which is math and knitting. And there will be bits of programming thrown in, now that I've sorted out some technical issues.
The thing is, I just have so much more to say about math and fit and knitting than picking out the perfect capsule wardrobe.
I have also changed my username on instagram and Ravelry to mathemaknitter.
I have to say, I'm surprised that nobody has thought of this username before.
In any case, I hope to be back in a few days with something more substantial. I did finish a shawl, two cardigans, the body of a shrug and a Modified Shawl Thing since I last wrote anything substantial.
Wednesday, 25 October 2017
Monday, 2 October 2017
Speedy Lace Knitting
(I'm writing this brief post for /u/FelidarSovereign.)
In this post, segments and repeats are different things.
Square shawls knitted in the round usually have 4 segments, but often have repeats of any number of stitches within each segment.
1. Knit in the round
Most people knit faster than they purl, particularly if they knit continental.
I find that garter lace is harder to fix, despite having been playing around with it for awhile. Many traditional garter lace patterns also have wrong-side patterning, which is troublesome for lifelines if you need them.
Knitting in the round also has the advantage that as your rows grow larger, you will not have to turn your work.
2. Minimise beading
Beading is pretty slow, unless you pre-string, but I have not worked with pre-strung before as I knit with very fine yarn, and I worry about the wear and tear on the yarn.
3. Choose your Left Leaning Decrease wisely
I use the SSK variation that Brooklyn Tweed recommends in their patterns, because it is very fast. I believe I first came across this in Permafrost by Jared Flood. Slip the first stitch as if to knit, then knit it and the next stitch together through the back loop. Naturally, if you need a 2-stitch left leaning decrease, you slip the first stitch, then knit it and the next 2 stitches together through the back loop and so forth.
If you're using yarn that is at least 1300m per 100g, I advocate just knitting or purling the stitches together through the back loop. You will not be able to tell the difference anyway.
4. Decrease in one movement
When you k2tog/k3tog/kxtog, it's about as fast as any other knit stitch.
One of the reasons why I like BT's SSK variation (see point 3 above) is that it is very easy to knit it in one movement, none of this passing stitches back and forth nonsense.
You can also do a CDD and other multi-stitch decreases in this manner. I actually find this to be easier to achieve with finer yarns.
This is important to speed because lace patterning is the result of planned decreasing and increasing, and the more intricate the lace, the more decreasing there will be.
5. Short repeats
Short repeats are faster to memorise, and require less checking back and forth with the chart/instructions.
You will likely also find that you will be much faster at finding mistakes when you need to.
6. Use fewer stitch markers
I am not advocating skipping them altogether, but for a shawl knitted in the round, I will typically only use stitch markers for every segment. For instance, a square knitted in the round usually has 4 segments, so I will have 4 stitch markers.
I am currently binding off a circular shawl that has 210 patterned rows, and is 8 segments in the round. I slipped markers 1680 times, but if I had a stitch marker every 20 stitches, plus for one to mark each segment, I would be slipping markers over 6000 times.
7. Provisional cast on for Very Fine Yarns
I recommend that if you are knitting flat with very fine yarn that you consider doing a COWYAK.
One of the problems with very fine yarn is that at the beginning, it is difficult to read your knitting because there is not enough weight to stretch out the yarn a little. This means you will use your fingers to do it, which is an additional strain and will slow you down.
Using a COWYAK with a slightly heavier yarn will give you that weight at the beginning. I recommend doing at least 5 or 6 rows, maybe more, because if you do need to stretch out your knitting to read it, it will also give you a 'handle' to use.
It will not be too heavy to stress the yarn, as once it is long enough, the COWYAK will just rest on your lap.
Additionally, you will be able to bind off both sides the same way, which will look nicer.
8. Wool and Animal Fibres are Queen
Elastic fibres make it easier for decreasing. This is really important because there is so much decreasing in lace.
It is also crucial to point 4 above. Decreasing in one movement with linen or cotton is more difficult than with wool or alpaca.
9. Skip the Knitted-on Border
I know they are traditional and pretty, but they are also slow and tedious and it is like sleeve island: it happens after the rest of it is done.
10. Knit Every Day
If you work on it every day, it will be easier for you each time you pick up the project again, especially if the pattern is repeating a lot.
In this post, segments and repeats are different things.
Square shawls knitted in the round usually have 4 segments, but often have repeats of any number of stitches within each segment.
1. Knit in the round
Most people knit faster than they purl, particularly if they knit continental.
I find that garter lace is harder to fix, despite having been playing around with it for awhile. Many traditional garter lace patterns also have wrong-side patterning, which is troublesome for lifelines if you need them.
Knitting in the round also has the advantage that as your rows grow larger, you will not have to turn your work.
2. Minimise beading
Beading is pretty slow, unless you pre-string, but I have not worked with pre-strung before as I knit with very fine yarn, and I worry about the wear and tear on the yarn.
3. Choose your Left Leaning Decrease wisely
I use the SSK variation that Brooklyn Tweed recommends in their patterns, because it is very fast. I believe I first came across this in Permafrost by Jared Flood. Slip the first stitch as if to knit, then knit it and the next stitch together through the back loop. Naturally, if you need a 2-stitch left leaning decrease, you slip the first stitch, then knit it and the next 2 stitches together through the back loop and so forth.
If you're using yarn that is at least 1300m per 100g, I advocate just knitting or purling the stitches together through the back loop. You will not be able to tell the difference anyway.
4. Decrease in one movement
When you k2tog/k3tog/kxtog, it's about as fast as any other knit stitch.
One of the reasons why I like BT's SSK variation (see point 3 above) is that it is very easy to knit it in one movement, none of this passing stitches back and forth nonsense.
You can also do a CDD and other multi-stitch decreases in this manner. I actually find this to be easier to achieve with finer yarns.
This is important to speed because lace patterning is the result of planned decreasing and increasing, and the more intricate the lace, the more decreasing there will be.
5. Short repeats
Short repeats are faster to memorise, and require less checking back and forth with the chart/instructions.
You will likely also find that you will be much faster at finding mistakes when you need to.
6. Use fewer stitch markers
I am not advocating skipping them altogether, but for a shawl knitted in the round, I will typically only use stitch markers for every segment. For instance, a square knitted in the round usually has 4 segments, so I will have 4 stitch markers.
I am currently binding off a circular shawl that has 210 patterned rows, and is 8 segments in the round. I slipped markers 1680 times, but if I had a stitch marker every 20 stitches, plus for one to mark each segment, I would be slipping markers over 6000 times.
7. Provisional cast on for Very Fine Yarns
I recommend that if you are knitting flat with very fine yarn that you consider doing a COWYAK.
One of the problems with very fine yarn is that at the beginning, it is difficult to read your knitting because there is not enough weight to stretch out the yarn a little. This means you will use your fingers to do it, which is an additional strain and will slow you down.
Using a COWYAK with a slightly heavier yarn will give you that weight at the beginning. I recommend doing at least 5 or 6 rows, maybe more, because if you do need to stretch out your knitting to read it, it will also give you a 'handle' to use.
It will not be too heavy to stress the yarn, as once it is long enough, the COWYAK will just rest on your lap.
Additionally, you will be able to bind off both sides the same way, which will look nicer.
8. Wool and Animal Fibres are Queen
Elastic fibres make it easier for decreasing. This is really important because there is so much decreasing in lace.
It is also crucial to point 4 above. Decreasing in one movement with linen or cotton is more difficult than with wool or alpaca.
9. Skip the Knitted-on Border
I know they are traditional and pretty, but they are also slow and tedious and it is like sleeve island: it happens after the rest of it is done.
10. Knit Every Day
If you work on it every day, it will be easier for you each time you pick up the project again, especially if the pattern is repeating a lot.
Thursday, 8 June 2017
Summer of Basics
Basics are what I'm missing from my wardrobe, especially good quality ones.
So Fringe Association's Summer of Basics is right up my alley. The goal is to make 3 items over 3 months that will be wardrobe essentials for you.
I'm aiming to make 1 set each of sewn and machine-knitted garments.
I have 3 dress patterns, so the sewn things are taken care off. I might shorten them a little to make tops or tunics, but that's about it.
It's the machine knitted garments that are maybe more interesting.
#1: Palmer by Michele Wang.
Photo copyright Brooklyn Tweed.
I've made significant progress on swatching and doing math to make this on the machine, because I'm clearly not knitting this much stockinette ever.
I am, however, undecided on whether to rib the hem, cuffs and so forth. It'll be a loooooooong project in single stranded in 2/14nm yarn. I'll most likely swatch with garter knitted sideways, and then ribbing both single and double stranded.
I do have some time to decide though. I plan to do all the ribbing for the fronts and hem at the same time, in one go, so I can mitre the corners of the bottom fronts.
#2: Sweater Blank by Renee Callahan
Photo copyright Craftsy.
I want one of these with loads of positive ease, kind of like a Boxy. I have swatched already too.
#3: Custom Fit?
I don't know which pattern, but I have been thinking that this might be a good time to try Custom Fit out. Possibly with a tuck stitch pattern. My back up plan is to make an Infinite Loop, since I already have a plan for it.
So Fringe Association's Summer of Basics is right up my alley. The goal is to make 3 items over 3 months that will be wardrobe essentials for you.
I'm aiming to make 1 set each of sewn and machine-knitted garments.
I have 3 dress patterns, so the sewn things are taken care off. I might shorten them a little to make tops or tunics, but that's about it.
It's the machine knitted garments that are maybe more interesting.
#1: Palmer by Michele Wang.
Photo copyright Brooklyn Tweed.
I've made significant progress on swatching and doing math to make this on the machine, because I'm clearly not knitting this much stockinette ever.
I am, however, undecided on whether to rib the hem, cuffs and so forth. It'll be a loooooooong project in single stranded in 2/14nm yarn. I'll most likely swatch with garter knitted sideways, and then ribbing both single and double stranded.
I do have some time to decide though. I plan to do all the ribbing for the fronts and hem at the same time, in one go, so I can mitre the corners of the bottom fronts.
#2: Sweater Blank by Renee Callahan
I want one of these with loads of positive ease, kind of like a Boxy. I have swatched already too.
#3: Custom Fit?
I don't know which pattern, but I have been thinking that this might be a good time to try Custom Fit out. Possibly with a tuck stitch pattern. My back up plan is to make an Infinite Loop, since I already have a plan for it.
Wednesday, 7 June 2017
A Standard Swatch
One of the best things about machine knitting is the ease of swatching.
Some labeled swatches. 2 of them are hand-knitted.
It's allowed me to experiment more with my yarns, and the fabric that I can create.
I've been doing a lot of swatching as a result. In fact, whenever I get a new yarn that I want to test on the machine, I make a standard swatch.
I cast on 40 stitches with e-wrap, knit 40 rows as a specific tension, and then cast off. I tag my swatches, measure the gauge, weight and size.
4-ply Acrylic.I expect to use this yarn for experiments with texture and cables.
2/14nm 70/30 yak hair/wool. Scrumptiously soft. I will be writing more about using this to make a light cardigan, I hope.
Some labeled swatches. 2 of them are hand-knitted.
I will be reporting on my experiments with tension in a few days, I hope.
Wednesday, 31 May 2017
Me Made May 2017
I hilariously wrote the entire post calling it May Made May before I realised that was actually Me Made.
I started out Me Made May 2017 with 2 cardigans, 1 scarf, and 1 shawl.
I added 4 dresses to the pile by the end of it.
This was the best picture I could take that included all 4 of them. I will hopefully write more in the coming weeks.
I made the dresses in the picture with the guidance of Jenny Schwarz (@schwarzmenswear or JennySchwarz.com), who also drafted the patterns for me.
I started out Me Made May 2017 with 2 cardigans, 1 scarf, and 1 shawl.
I added 4 dresses to the pile by the end of it.
This was the best picture I could take that included all 4 of them. I will hopefully write more in the coming weeks.
I made the dresses in the picture with the guidance of Jenny Schwarz (@schwarzmenswear or JennySchwarz.com), who also drafted the patterns for me.
Friday, 26 May 2017
A Shortcut to the Perfect Dress
I have had a lot of trouble finding patterns for dresses that felt like me, and the ones I did like were often made out of fabrics I didn't want to care for.
(Ironing. I don't do it. I only purchased my first ever iron after deciding that I would take up sewing.)
A lot of popular sewing designs that are simple to make are also loose around the waist, which is a style I particularly dislike to wear. I feel big and heavy in them no matter what, and I generally prefer my clothes to be cut close to my body.
Most of the things I did like were impractical for me to make and imperfect for my wardrobe.
The perfect dress would allow me to ride my bike, be a simple backdrop to my hand knits, and have a fairly fitted silhouette.
I just felt stuck. I hated the thought that the first few things weren't going to be things I LOVED.
I didn't expect them to be perfect, but I did expect them to be better than stuff I bought.
I looked up a bunch of sewing classes, and wrote some emails to a couple of places, asking if they would be willing to help.
But it was actually when my beautiful coat's lining was torn that I found the perfect person.
We talked, and she drew up some sketches and made some toiles. She did all the drafting, and she's now coaching me through making the first pieces.
I'll write more about my perfect dresses soon. I'm finding that I'm actually struggling to write as much as I thought I would when I purchased the domain name.
(Ironing. I don't do it. I only purchased my first ever iron after deciding that I would take up sewing.)
A lot of popular sewing designs that are simple to make are also loose around the waist, which is a style I particularly dislike to wear. I feel big and heavy in them no matter what, and I generally prefer my clothes to be cut close to my body.
Most of the things I did like were impractical for me to make and imperfect for my wardrobe.
The perfect dress would allow me to ride my bike, be a simple backdrop to my hand knits, and have a fairly fitted silhouette.
I just felt stuck. I hated the thought that the first few things weren't going to be things I LOVED.
I didn't expect them to be perfect, but I did expect them to be better than stuff I bought.
I looked up a bunch of sewing classes, and wrote some emails to a couple of places, asking if they would be willing to help.
But it was actually when my beautiful coat's lining was torn that I found the perfect person.
We talked, and she drew up some sketches and made some toiles. She did all the drafting, and she's now coaching me through making the first pieces.
I'll write more about my perfect dresses soon. I'm finding that I'm actually struggling to write as much as I thought I would when I purchased the domain name.
Monday, 15 May 2017
May Made: Apex
The Making
Olga Buraya-Kefelian's Apex in Zealana Artisan Heron.
Another sweater by Olga Buraya-Kefelian!
This gorgeous oversized sweater coat was originally designed to be longer, but I'm pretty short and I wanted something I could safely cycle in without snags, so I made it shorter.
I, uh, did not swatch, but just cast on the smallest size. For the body, the only modification I made was to knit fewer rows in the cabled/lace pattern because it would have been too long to cycle in otherwise.
I added a row of plain knitting to the shoulders (both front and back) before doing the three-needle bind off for a little added structure. It actually also looks much nicer this way. I do plan to reinforce the shoulder and bought some cotton webbing for it.
I also knit the sleeves in the round, and I made them quite a bit smaller because I have skinny arms.
Instead of a crochet cast on, I used a tubular cast on for the ribbing. I also used Tech Knitter's trick to make the transition of ribbing to stockinette look nicer, and I'd definitely recommend doing that. Very little extra work for quite a bit of pay off.
This is a garment that needs seams, and the bigger and longer you make it, the more it'll need them. I wouldn't recommend changing it to be worked in the round.
Closeup of the right side. I did this one second, so it looks nicer than the other side.
I spent an entire day seaming this, to make sure the sleeves set right and the pattern was aligned. Totally worth it!
The Materials
Leftover Zealana Artisan Heron in colour Red Chilli. I originally bought 16 balls because I was afraid I would run out.
The yarn is Zealana Artisan Heron, which is a 80/20 merino possum blend.
I really love the resulting garment, but I did not enjoy knitting this yarn. It's very stiff, and it made it impossible for me to do the cables without a cable needle. It's also worsted, which I don't typically like knitting anyway.
The stitch definition is very nice, and it spit splices like a dream. It feels very sturdy, and only broke once during seaming despite the number of times I ripped them out and reused the yarn.
This yarn gets softer with wear. I was kind of disappointed when I first put it on because it wasn't as soft as I had hoped. But I've been wearing it for a few days now, and it's much much nicer than right after I seamed it. So don't despair!
The Wearing
Apex over black top and bespoke wool trousers.
Apex with knee-high boots! This is a really great combo.
This is a beautiful garment that is comfortable to wear. It works from house coat to nice cardigan over tailored clothes for work, and everything in between. Definitely be a great travel piece too.
I would recommend picking a yarn that would be comfortable at a variety of indoor temperatures. I'm a little concerned that mine will be too warm indoors, but the generous open front and reverse v-neck makes it a bit impractical outdoors.
I really love this garment. I am seriously considering making another one already, and to be honest, the more I wear it, the more I want another one. :)
Olga Buraya-Kefelian's Apex in Zealana Artisan Heron.
Another sweater by Olga Buraya-Kefelian!
This gorgeous oversized sweater coat was originally designed to be longer, but I'm pretty short and I wanted something I could safely cycle in without snags, so I made it shorter.
I, uh, did not swatch, but just cast on the smallest size. For the body, the only modification I made was to knit fewer rows in the cabled/lace pattern because it would have been too long to cycle in otherwise.
I added a row of plain knitting to the shoulders (both front and back) before doing the three-needle bind off for a little added structure. It actually also looks much nicer this way. I do plan to reinforce the shoulder and bought some cotton webbing for it.
I also knit the sleeves in the round, and I made them quite a bit smaller because I have skinny arms.
Instead of a crochet cast on, I used a tubular cast on for the ribbing. I also used Tech Knitter's trick to make the transition of ribbing to stockinette look nicer, and I'd definitely recommend doing that. Very little extra work for quite a bit of pay off.
This is a garment that needs seams, and the bigger and longer you make it, the more it'll need them. I wouldn't recommend changing it to be worked in the round.
Closeup of the right side. I did this one second, so it looks nicer than the other side.
I spent an entire day seaming this, to make sure the sleeves set right and the pattern was aligned. Totally worth it!
The Materials
Leftover Zealana Artisan Heron in colour Red Chilli. I originally bought 16 balls because I was afraid I would run out.
The yarn is Zealana Artisan Heron, which is a 80/20 merino possum blend.
I really love the resulting garment, but I did not enjoy knitting this yarn. It's very stiff, and it made it impossible for me to do the cables without a cable needle. It's also worsted, which I don't typically like knitting anyway.
The stitch definition is very nice, and it spit splices like a dream. It feels very sturdy, and only broke once during seaming despite the number of times I ripped them out and reused the yarn.
This yarn gets softer with wear. I was kind of disappointed when I first put it on because it wasn't as soft as I had hoped. But I've been wearing it for a few days now, and it's much much nicer than right after I seamed it. So don't despair!
The Wearing
Apex over black top and bespoke wool trousers.
Apex with knee-high boots! This is a really great combo.
This is a beautiful garment that is comfortable to wear. It works from house coat to nice cardigan over tailored clothes for work, and everything in between. Definitely be a great travel piece too.
I would recommend picking a yarn that would be comfortable at a variety of indoor temperatures. I'm a little concerned that mine will be too warm indoors, but the generous open front and reverse v-neck makes it a bit impractical outdoors.
I really love this garment. I am seriously considering making another one already, and to be honest, the more I wear it, the more I want another one. :)
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